"Powershiftmedia-ResidentDSMGuru" (matt-powershiftmedia)
05/29/2018 at 01:57 • Filed to: DSM, Project Car
10
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"Powershiftmedia-ResidentDSMGuru" (matt-powershiftmedia)
05/29/2018 at 01:57 • Filed to: DSM, Project Car | 10
| 8 |
Chances are that you’ve seen me post about my 1990 Eagle Talon TSi. It’s come so far since when it hit the driveway, and the journey still has many trials and tribulations ahead.
It was time to pull her apart for many maintence items and improvements, so the lift was going to need to be utilized. The brakes had all but became nonexistent, so I’d ordered everything to tackle that. I already had the larger AWD dual piston calipers and carriers waiting in the garage; they were also already loaded with Hawk brake pads.
I’d ordered the larger AWD front rotors as well, and some basic standard sized rear rotors. Unfortunately, the rotors were rusted to the front spindles and gave us a fit. We attempted to heat and beat them, but we failed. The old outer tie rods were already sloppy, and by the time we were done they were toast. The ball joints were also beyond used up.
Additionally the front brake hoses looked terrible, and some realizations had dawned upon me; I need to order tie rods, control arms (mine are rusty and new ones have preinstalled ball joints) and a poly bushing kit to tighten everything up. Also I’m ordering some Goodrich stainless brake lines.
Things got worse too. The knock sensor had seen better days, and we decided that needed to be addressed. We had noticed that upon pulling the transmission to replace my clutch. As it turns out, the clutch was a factory replacement that appeared newer, and surprisingly never slipped at my far higher power levels.
A Competition stage 4 six puck clutch now clamps a Fidanza nine pound flywheel, and that flywheel is secured with the necessary longer Toyota 3SGTE ARP flywheel bolts.
I’d also elected to order an STM braided clutch line to replace the old hard line and tidy up my engine bay. Also in the way of tidying the bay, we deleted the AC system and pulled every single component to the tune of 20-30 pounds saved. I’d also pulled every underbody heat shield, exhaust hanger and anything else that isn’t completely necessary since I’m running a side exit bumper exhaust.
Since the EGR delete was done, I deleted all of the emissions lines and pulled the massive charcoal canister too. Now my bay has a ton of space and a ton of weight saved. Since that crap is gone, I can run the JMF lightweight battery and save another 20-30 pounds. Also, the AC being gone allows me to relocate the alternator to the rear where the AC used to reside, and gets it away from the hot exhaust.
The above picture shows the space saved, that’s where the charcoal canister used to hang out.
We also elected to use an AWD driver’s side half shaft, which is known as the equal length half shaft conversion. This allows the car to remain straight when torque steering instead of pulling to the right. This keeps me far safer and allows some quicker ETs at the track. Sadly, when we went to mount the transmission we had realized how shot my motor mounts are. The engine was sagging so bad that we had to get creative to remount the transmission. So... I’m ordering upgraded poly mounts there too.
The poly mounts will stop wheel hop and put the power down far more efficiently. It will be necessary since the fuel pump is getting swapped for a massive Walbro and a rewire to drive the pump to the fullest current possible. I’m scheduled to get a tune in July and I’m shooting for 400-450 wheel horsepower before I rebuild my spare motor and install a massive turbo.
On my current motor with 220xxx miles, we have done a new timing belt, OEM tensioner and balance shaft belt and tensioner. We also replaced the water pump and remaining accessory belt. After all, reliability is the biggest thing for me, and this car has been egregiously reliable.
So, here’s what’s been done and is pending being done:
Tie rods
Control arms
Poly control arm bushings
Poly sway bar bushings
Poly engine mounts
Timing belt and components
Big brake conversion and lines
Boost controller upgrade
Fuel pump upgrade
Stage 4 clutch and lightweight flywheel
Stainless clutch line
Knock sensor
Weight reduction
Matt’s DSM
There’s another buddy of mine named Matt (like myself) that owns a 1990 Eclipse. It was a rolling shell, and he’s pretty well got the interior in it in his free time. My buddy Nathan just built a Frankenstein 4G63 for this car. It utilizes a 6 bolt engine block with turbo rods, NON TURBO high compression pistons, ACL race bearings, main studs and a 2g 7 bolt head. Since he ran ARP head studs we had to bore the holes for his head studs.
7 bolt head bolt holes were slightly smaller than 6 bolt head bolt holes, so Nathan did what he does best; modifying existing components. The engine assembled easily with all brand new components and is one of the coolest I’ve seen. The non turbo pistons have been proven to handle excellent power assuming the tune is conservative and knock is avoided. The higher compression allows lightning fast turbo spool and his motor is going to rocket his lightweight FWD.
Plus, this engine is gorgeous. He spent some serious coin on powder coating. Here’s the engine in the car. We put this in tonight. I’ll end on these, and let the pictures do the talking. Stay tuned for more updates on all of our DSMs.
sony1492
> Powershiftmedia-ResidentDSMGuru
05/29/2018 at 03:01 |
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Sounds like your going full street/race car with the side exit exhaust and weight saving. I’m interested to see those dyno results when you get to that point.
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Powershiftmedia-ResidentDSMGuru
> sony1492
05/29/2018 at 03:17 |
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Yeah the plan for now is 550hp to the wheels or so. It’ll be a weekend car with some attitude, and reducing weight is huge part for me. Reducing weight allows me to keep the power lower (550 is modest for these) while the lower weight goes much farther at making the modest power more crazy. In my mind it’ll help me keep the transmission in one piece since it’s a manual.
That’s why my drag car is going to have a 2g auto in it haha.
gettingoldercarguy
> Powershiftmedia-ResidentDSMGuru
05/29/2018 at 03:22 |
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Been waiting for an update! Did you see this dsm for sale?
https://oppositelock.kinja.com/drove-up-to-a-smaller-town-s-cars-and-coffee-1826348343
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sony1492
> Powershiftmedia-ResidentDSMGuru
05/29/2018 at 03:37 |
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550whp,”modest”.
Hp plays a bigger role than weight in pushing a power to weight ratio down but I understand the reasoning.
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Powershiftmedia-ResidentDSMGuru
> gettingoldercarguy
05/29/2018 at 03:37 |
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Thanks for staying tuned! I really do appreciate that!!! There’s tons more to come.
Wow that red Talon is mint, and that price is truly great. Someone in a group I’m in purchased a 91 TSi with 14,000 miles for like $16,000. That’s well priced.
Nathan has a red 92 that’s absolutely pristine. It’s a shell and has been indoors the last ten years. We’re working on putting it back together too! It’s as clean as the red one in that post ;)
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Powershiftmedia-ResidentDSMGuru
> sony1492
05/29/2018 at 04:03 |
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You’re definitely not wrong. But here’s where I’m coming from.
My buddy has a Scat pack challenger that can drive like a pro. He’s gotten a 12.5 out of it with 485hp. Now his car does wheel hop and that hurts. It weighs roughly 4200 pounds.
450whp in a DSM is a deep 11 second car just because of the weight differential. Kind of like how a 300whp civic hatch that hooks can wax off a mid 11 second pass.
550whp is definitely a good number, but that’s super easily doable even on a stock motor (with cams of course). My bottom end will simply be some ACL race bearings, main studs and stock 6 bolt rods with 2g pistons. Nothing more.
A buddy of mine is making in the deep 800whp range on a COMPLETELY stock bottom end and that motor has been together over 10 years :)
So my goal is quite modest. IF I can make it hook it’ll easily click in the 10 second range, and that’s where I want it.
The end goal is under 15k invested in the entire car for a daily drivable 10 second street car. I’ve got roughly 9k left in budget, and that includes having the car painted and all. It’ll be a solid looking and performing car while retaining the manual.
My idea is if I grenade the trans, just take it and get the gears faceplated.
Stay tuned to follow my journey!
bob and john
> Powershiftmedia-ResidentDSMGuru
05/29/2018 at 09:20 |
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800 WHP...on a stock bottom end for 10 years.
good christ man.
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Powershiftmedia-ResidentDSMGuru
> bob and john
05/29/2018 at 14:22 |
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And it probably has 2500 passes on it haha